To Market, to Market

“To market to market to buy a fat pig… So says the old nursery rhyme. That is almost the way it is in Mexico.

In the States, we go to the super market, where we can buy almost anything we want in one fell swoop. It is not that way in Mexico, at least outside of the larger cities.

Oh, there are “mercado commercials” (remember to accent the last syllable) — commercial markets somewhat akin to a super Walmart, only much smaller, selling everything from soup to nuts and I don’t mean the kind you eat either.

The  locals in Taxco shop at the “mercado grande” – a giant multi-floor maze of shops and stalls inside and outside, upstairs and down, and all around a conglomeration of buildings and alleys downtown, near the zocolo at the city center. There are permanent shops in the mercado that sell meat, dairy, nuts and seeds, fruits and veggies, and more general stuff like watches and batteries, clothing, wine and liquor, flowers, engine parts and repair, plastic household goods, and even a hair dresser or two.

On Mondays, the market swells to include people from miles around selling fresh produce, herbs, maize for tortillas, and anything else you can imagine. And of course, Taxco residents buying what they need for the day or week.

One recent morning I accompanied Irma on her weekly shopping expedition, and I mean expedition quite literally. Come along…

Mercado, Taxco, Mexico

Frutas y verduras (fruits and vegetables) for sale

First we grab the giant economy sized shopping bag, and walk to the market, about 3/4 mile up the cobblestone street that winds through the downtown, down a little alley that by-passes the zocolo proper and up the other side (think of walking through a mixing bowl), around the corner and into the multi-hued semi-darkness of streets covered with tarps (red, blue, green, and white).

Mercado, Chilpancingo, Mexico

Fruit with your brassiere?

Follow her past the cacophony of vendors and shoppers, haggling over quality and price, through a maze of corridors, dodging dangling underwear, winding around the glow-in-the-dark bras, assorted housewares, and hardware vendors, and inhaling the aroma of the comidas (little food stands).

Pig head


We continue to wind around and around, up the stairs, and around the corner when I come face to face with a pig — well it was a pig, now just its head (with one eye poorly sewn shut so that it seems to be peeking at me) nicely nestled next to four feet (with toes that look strangely manicured) in some sort of odd and disjointed repose. Next to this is the rest of the animal, sliced, diced and hung in chunks for sale.  Across the aisle is the beef vendor with cuts of meat hung from hooks. Irma orders something, they take down one of the slabs of meat and slice off what she wants, and hangs the rest for the next customer.

Chicken sculpture

Artzy pollo (chicken)

Next we head down the stairs and around another corner where the chicken vendor is busy chopping up whole chickens and slicing the breast into one long thin slice, which is pounded and later cooked up quickly for tacos. Though I saw one foot on the table (in some circles the feet are more highly prized and expensive than the breast), this vendor does not make a sculpture of them like they did in Chilpancingo. Irma buys one large chicken breast, which by the time she gets done stewing and pulling it will feed a family of four or more, and off we go past the sausages and organ meats, to wind around, up, and down some more until we come to her favorite queso (cheese) stand.

Cheese, mercado, Taxco, Mexico

Say cheese

Mexican cheese comes in three basic styles, mostly the same cheese just in various stages of “ripeness” or maturity.  There is crema, a thick sweet cream about the consistency of American sour cream, that they dip with their plastic-bagged hands out of a 5 gallon bucket, turn the bag inside out, tie the ends and send along home with you, the soft, crumbly “fresca,” which sits in giant rounds waiting for you to order a chunk or have the vendor grate it before your eyes. There is also Queso Oaxaca – the Mexican version of string cheese, which is the same cheese only it is pulled like taffy while it is solidifying. Oh and, you can get all three cheeses dipped and cured in chili if you like. This shop also sells milk, yogurt, and canned beans and chilis — sort of your one stop taco or quesadilla fixin’s shop.

Down another set of well worn steps that originally led to a street but which now is permanently part of the market, we come to the women selling maize – a corn flour mixture that any self-respecting housewife takes home to make tortillas (2 kilos please).

Pandeleria (bakery)

Pandeleria (bakery)

Down more stairs, then through what appears to be a broken down wall (they just knocked it out and you descend on steps cut into the rubble which under the passing of thousands of feet have turned into a heap of gravel), then up another we come to the bakery section, where Irma buys bolillos (a short, wide loaf that is sort of a cross between French and Italian bread only softer) remarkably unburned; bread here is often cooked in wood-fired clay ovens, so many times it is more than a little black on the bottom or around the edges. Toast these on a cast iron tortilla pan with a little butter and sprinkle of sugar and it is to die for.



We wind around some more (Are you lost? I know I am.) and come to a set of steps, filled with vendors selling produce, herbs, and live jomillas, the little bugs that give golden salsa here it’s unique flavor.

The steps and the alleyways beyond are full of little tables, or sometimes just a blanket or baskets on the ground, where people from the surrounding countryside come to sell their fruit, vegetables, and sometimes crafts in front of permanent shops selling meat, flowers, hardware, sundries, CDs, toys and you name it. This part of the market is outdoors so you don’t really realize that you are almost out of it until you pass the last stall and there you are on the busy street. We emerge into the bright sunlight, right across from the combi (bus) stop; good thing too because by now our shopping bags must weigh 20 pounds each.

Shopping done

Shopping done

We head home to unload our goodies, but wait, we are not done yet. We empty the bags, peel some fruit and start it and that chicken breast stewing on the stove, and head out to the little mercado around the corner from the house where Irma selects the oranges, parsley, cucumbers, papaya, tomatoes, peppers, onions, and other basic (and heavy) ingredients for her homemade fruit waters, tacos, and more.

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Are you hungry yet?

You are amazing, just the way you are…

So go the lyrics of a popular song.

A friend recently sent me a moving piece about body image (that is fittingly captured in the lyrics, by the way.)

Blue Bear the mermaidA flyer posted outside a gym asked, “Would you rather be a mermaid or a whale?”

A real woman responded by commenting on how whales are surrounded by family and friends, they are tender with children, travel far, sing beautifully, and are loved by many.

A mermaid  on the other hand, does not exist but if it did it would be sad and lonely and probably need therapy to resolve its split personality issues. (“Woman or fish?”)  

After concluding that she would rather be a whale, the writer ended by saying:

“We women gain weight because we accumulate so much wisdom and knowledge that there isn’t enough space in our heads, and it spreads all over our bodies. We are not fat, we are greatly cultivated. Every time I see my curves in the mirror, I tell myself: “How amazing am I ?!”

This piece and the accompanying photo of a beautiful, voluptuous woman, got me thinking about how warped the American idea of beauty is.

In Mexico, I feel so much more beautiful. Perhaps, because of all the walking I do to get from here to there every day, I am a few pounds lighter, or at least trimmer, my skin definitely glows, and since the food is fresh, there are fewer additives and preservatives to cause me to bloat; but it is more than physical.

Those few pounds really do not make the difference in how I feel. It is the attitude of everyone around me — whatever size or shape you are, however old or young, you are you and you are fine (wonderful, beautiful, marvelous, fantastic, amazing…) just the way you are. There is no better or more beautiful way to live.

Blue Bear on stairs

It may not be easy being blue, but I am happy just the way I am.

So, cultivate being the amazing and beautiful person that you are, inside and out.

Taking things for granted – Getting in hot water

Do you know what this is?

Heater wand                                                                                                    It is an electric water heater.

Coming from a country where you turn on the faucet and hot water comes out anytime day or night, you probably have never had reason to use one (unless perhaps on a farm to keep the water trough from freezing or a similar device to warm bird “baths” in winter.)

Recently I read,  “You have to be  flexible to live abroad. Utilities seem to run on their own schedules…  If you get up in the morning and you have water, it is a good day. If you get up and you have hot water it is a great day.”

Thus has been the case, here in Taxco this winter. For some reason the water utility  has seen fit to deliver water in drips and drops, but not enough to keep the cistern full and unless the cistern is full, the water does not fill the tank on the roof that is my water supply. Without water in the tank, no water in the water heater, thus to bathe, I can either heat water on the stove and carry it up three flights of stairs (one being a wrought iron, circular stair that is dangerous enough without anything in my hands, let alone scalding hot water) OR use this device. How?


First you fill a bucket of water, then, making sure the plastic cap on the end of the metal is submerged, you plug the cord into the nearest electrical outlet and you wait. After 10 minutes or so, your water will be hot.


While you are waiting, you assemble the rest of your bathing needs, including a large bowl of cold water and a cup or small bowl to serve as your pouring container.

Be sure to heat the water hotter than is comfortable so that you can custom mix with the cold water and pour this over your head, suds up, and pour again to rinse.

This method is so efficient that you can wash your hair, body, and your underwear all at the same time, and perhaps even have enough left over to flush the toilet.

The whole process may take 10 minutes and uses, at most, a gallon and a half of water. Compare that to the average American shower that uses 7 gallons of water per minute (even a low flow uses 2.5).

So if you want to save water, you might want to try the bucket method. Luckily for those of you back home, the water is already hot and you can adjust the temperature perfectly, so all you need is a bucket.

Try it, you might like it? And just imagine the savings on your next water bill.

For the love of chocolate

Mente Chocolate signA short walk from the Jardin in San Miguel de Allende, is a chocolate lovers paradise.  Mente Cacao (mente means mind or intellect not mint), is run by Eduardo and Andreas, connoisseurs of fine cacao.  Notice I did not say cocoa, for what they have to offer is much more sublime that your average cocoa or chocolate bar.

Eduardo’s family grows the cacao, harvests the beans at the peak of perfection, and grinds them by hand extracting all the wonderful healthy properties of the bean.

They mix three different formulas, sweet,  semi-sweet, and dark (80%) and serve up the finest hot chocolate  that you will find anywhere. With a little cream and raw cocoa nibs on top — it’s pure decadence!!!

img_6330-qprIf hot chocolate is not your cup of “tea” try a blackberry pastry drizzled in hot chocolate, handmade gourmet chocolates with ingredients like citrus peel, dried fruit, nuts, or even chili; if you have never tried chocolate with chili – it is a taste sensation. To keep your chocolate addiction at bay, take home some bars of the sweet chocolate goodness.


Next time you are in downtown San Miguel de Allende, stop by the chocolateria, on Zacateros near Umaran and savor a little deliciousness.

Be sure to tell them Blue Bear sent you.

Let the sun shine

Currently I live on the top floor of a house, on a hill in Taxco. When I open my eyes in  the morning I look over the top of the city and beyond to the mountains, where every morning the sun comes up to greet me.

Sunrise over Taxco, Mexico

Since winter is the dry season in Mexico, that usually means the sky turns from deep indigo, to violet to shades of  magenta, coral, pink and peach, in layers sort of like a sand sculpture or those gelatin cups they sell everywhere here (Mexicans love their gelatin).

Days are clear and bright with azure blue skies occasionally dotted with a few white puffy clouds.

Imagine my surprise and wonder when I opened my eyes and saw this.

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He certainly knows how to paint a beautiful sky. I just love how the beauty changes minute by minute.

Going Bananas

Took a little trip out to Irma’s ranchero (now belonging to her son, Fabian.) The house is situated on the side of the mountain about 20 minutes or so outside of Taxco. To quote The Who, “I can see for miles and miles and miles and miles.”

Outside Taxco, Mexico

img_5754-qprBelow the house, by about 50 or so steps, is the Acamixla KH, which has a balcony that wraps around the side and back.

I was snapping some photos and admiring the view when I came around a corner and and there on the deck sat a big bunch of bananas ripening in the sun. img_5761-qpr




Looking around, I discovered the bananas must have come from one of several trees growing on the property..

Having only seen banana trees at botanical gardens, and then usually with a bunch of bananas high over head, I was amazed to see this “double-decker” banana flower up close.

You can clearly see the bunch of bananas at the top but look closer at what appears to be a relative of Audrey II, the man eating plant in “Little Shop of Horrors”, and you will see a banana flower just starting to open.

Look closer still and you will see the individual banana flowers under the larger open petal. As the larger flower bud opens, petal by petal, it exposes a ring of long, tubular yellow flowers with red tips. I am told that when these have had a chance to be pollinated, the covering leaves drop to the ground and a new set opens revealing another ring of sweet smelling golden blossoms. When the flower has opened completely, all that remains is a bunch of green bananas to grow and ripen – upside down of course. But you knew that didn’t you?

Friends with bananasBanana anyone?