Tamal

Learning a language can be quite comico at times.

I was at a meeting recently, struggling to understand what was being said. I had recently learned that unlike in the US where tamales is plural and tamale is singular, in Mexico, you have one tamal.

Tamales, MexicoWant some salsa with that?

As I was listening to the speaker, I kept hearing the word tamal. “Tamal” here and “tamal” there, “tamal,” “tamal,” “tamal.” This was a serious discussion though and I could not figure out what tamales had to do with it. Finally I asked my companion, “Why is he talking about food?”

She looked at me quizzically and asked, “What?”

I replied, “He keeps saying ‘tamal.’ What does food have to do with the discussion?”

She had to stifle a laugh, then explained that he was saying, “esTA mal.” “It is bad.”

Sounded like tamal to me.

Mexican Traditions — First Friday

This morning I was awakened before dawn by airworks – those booming cannon shot sounding fireworks (with no fire.) They continued throughout the day culminating in special church services, bandas parading through the streets, people singing, jumping into fountains, and other festivities.

Street band, Taxco de Alarcon, MexicoWhen I asked why, the only answer I would get is, “First Friday,” like I should know what that means. Since I am not Catholic and the only thing I know about Lenten traditions is that it is a time of penance, that follows the all out debauchery that is Carnival/Mardi Gras, and lasts from Ash Wednesday to Easter Sunday, I decided it was a good time to find out.

In Mexico, the word for Lent is Cuaresma, which comes from the word for 40 representing the 40 days Jesus spent in the wilderness. With Mexico being one of the most Catholic countries in the world, Lenten observances are an important part of the culture, filled with solemn observances, processions, and merriment. It is a time of church and family activities, sobriety and abstinence, with most Mexicans giving up eating meat on Fridays.

So what is this First Friday all about? On the first Friday after Ash Wednesday,  processions of “The Lord of Mercy” goes through the main streets of town, imploring mercy for sins. Rag tag bands of all sorts, wander the streets, which usually attract more of a Pied Piper following than any kind of solemn observance.

Street band, Taxco, MexicoMy first year here, before I knew about First Friday and all the other Fridays that follow, I was told that the bands were to remind people that it was a holy time, which was really amusing considering they came marching over the hill playing Roll Out the Barrel, a quintessential drinking song.

I now know that each Friday from now until Easter I will be awakened with airworks and serenaded to sleep by brass bands, each marking a special observance such as Dia de la Samaritana or Viernes de Dolores, the Friday of Sorrows, observed on the last Friday before Easter week in recognition of Mary’s loss of her son. All of this leads up to the influx of thousands of penitents and onlookers for Semana Santa (Holy Week) in Taxco.

Holy Week in Taxco de Alaracon, MexicoEnough of a lesson for now. More later. Or visit the GoMexico Website.

Amigos

The word of the day is amigos – friends.

If this guy took a bath once in awhile, we might be grande amigos.

Two bearsFYI – If your friend is female, she is your amiga. But if your group of amigas includes just one muchacho, then they are all amigos.  Just one of the frustrating things about learning this language, not only do you need to know different verb tenses but all the words change (including the pronouns) depending on who is the subject of the sentence, not just singular or plural but feminina and masculina as well.

Would somebody please tell me why a man’s tie (la corbata) is feminine and a woman’s dress (el vestido) is masculine?

You don’t know what you are missing

It is said, “That you do not know what you have until its gone.” In other words, take nothing for granted.

I was very aware that I could not see the sunrise in Ocotito, mostly because I did not know where to go to see it. Lil’s parent’s house was on the wrong side of the hill, the house was dark until well after sunrise, and the yard was too obscured by trees to see much of anything anyway.

Even the one sunset I managed to catch was a bit mild mannered.

So imagine my joy and wonder as the sky welcomed me back to Taxco with riotous color this morning!

There was even color over the Zocolo!

Sunrise over Zocolo, Taxco de Alarcon, MexicoOh sunrise, how I have missed thee!

Makes me realize just what a wonderful vantage point I have to view this glorious show each morning.

I will never take this view for granted.

Mexican Traditions – Ash Wednesday

I arrived back in Taxco from my week in the country (in El Ocotito with Lili’s family) and the first thing I noticed after stepping off the bus was that a guy had a smudge of dirt on his forehead. As I continued home, I saw another person, and then another but this time the smudge looked like an X.

Ah, it dawned on me, it is Ash Wednesday, marking the beginning of the Lenten season for Catholics around the world. That’s why there was so much coverage of Carnival (in Rio), Mardi Gras (in New Orleans) and party celebrations in other locations on the television last night! (Not speaking Spanish I had no idea what the announcers were saying, I just recognized the partying and city captions; it didn’t even dawn on me that it was Tuesday.)

Though, in Taxco, there were likely some parades and partying, church bells and airworks (fireworks with only the boom) until midnight, then church bells and more airworks at dawn…

Night life, El Ocotito, Mexicoit was amazingly quiet in our little town.

I didn’t even see any ashes on foreheads until I came back to Taxco. And that is saying something since I traveled through Ocotito, Chilpancingo, and Iguala, in a truck, two buses, and a taxi.

Tonight the church bells are ringing and the airworks booming but when the day is done, it will be quiet at least until Friday when parades and bandas will roam the streets to remind people that it is a sacred time (see photos and read more about Fat Tuesday traditions here). This scenario will repeat itself every Friday as it all leads up to what a student of mine calls “the big show,” semana santa or holy week, when it is really crazy in Taxco.

Stay tuned. As my student says, you really do not want to miss the show.

 

For the Birds

“Our thoughts and feelings have wings—paper birds that fly from my house to yours.”

I am not sure where this quote came from. Something similar is attributed to Terry Tempest Williams in Refuge and there is also a similar line in a Seekers song. You decide.

I just like the thought and have been waiting for a day when I could use it. Today is the day. For this day there are flower birds flying from my house to yours.

Bird of Paradise. Aptly named, don’t you think?

Bird of Paradise, Taxco, MexicoReminds me of a crane.

The beauty of creation never ceases to delight and amaze me.

Do you have a favorite flower?

Off the beaten path

Just when I finally got running water back, I am heading to the country for a week, where such modern conveniences do not exist.

Life is a little slower out there.

You take long walks,

Walking a country road, Ocotito, Mexicosnooze a little,

Cat on the roof, Ocotito, Mexicosimmer dinner over a wood fire,

Chicken simmering over a wood fire, Ocotito, Mexico and hang out on the porch with friends and family.

Dog in a chair, Ocotito, MexicoI am sure I will be doing lots of reading, writing, and studying Spanish. But, technology has not made it out that far yet, so unless I find an Internet cafe somewhere within walking distance (highly unlikely), I’ll see you here in about a  week.

Then, as Paul Harvey would say, I’ll tell you, “The rest of the story…”

Hasta luego! (See you later)

 

Regalo

That’s gift in Spanish.

Last night, just as I was heading to bed, I heard a deep rumble. There was a flash of lightning and all of a sudden the sky opened up and it poured. Listening to the sound of the pouring rain is a very soothing way to go to sleep. A gift.

Perhaps even better was the gift for my eyes that the storm clouds presented this morning.

Sunrise, Taxco de Alarcon, MexicoSunrise, Taxco de Alarcon, MexicoSunrise, Taxco de Alarcon, MexicoSunrise, Taxco de Alarcon, MexicoRegalo glorioso!

Especialmente para tu

February 14 is Valentine’s Day in Mexico, just as it is in the US and numerous countries around the world.

When it comes to celebrating the day of love, there is not much differente South of the border. Flowers, chocolates, special dinners, and heart shaped everything from cakes to jewelry prevail.

Especially prevalent here are globos (balloons), the word of the day.

img_6824-qprNo matter the shape, sentiment, or occasion, Tweetie says it best.

 

Becoming Mexican

Because I wrapped a bright colored Mexican shawl around my waist to dress up an outfit, someone accused me recently of becoming Mexican. Yeah sure, with my command of the language. That’s funny.

But then this cool front came in… Cold front, axco de Alarcon, Mexico

and the temperature dropped to the mid-sixties. I had to laugh as I found myself rolling my pant legs down and reaching for a jacket.

65 degrees of frio (do I sense a book title there?) Yep, I’m turning Mexican alright.

Well sort of, I am not wearing a winter coat like some people.